Shower Door Seal Finder
Quick answer
Enter your glass thickness (1/4″–1/2″ or custom), the gap the seal must close, your door type, and where the water escapes. The finder converts fractions to decimal inches and millimeters, checks every catalog product's stated size ranges, and returns the top three matches scored 0–100 with trimming notes — plus two alternative seal types worth considering.
Data reviewed:
Your matches
- Best seal type
- Splash guard
- Acceptable glass thickness
- —
- Acceptable gap
- not gap-dependent
- Trimming likely?
- Yes — plan to cut to length
- Top match rating
- Good fit · 100/100
Top 3 recommended
Shower Splash Guard Corner Fins, 10 in, Pair
- Glass
- —
- Length
- 10″
- Material
- Clear PVC
- Mount
- adhesive
Quarter-round fins that mount at the curb corners to block low-angle spray escaping around the fixed panel or door edge. Sold in pairs with adhesive or silicone.
⚠ Fixes corner splash only — water passing under the door needs a sweep, not a splash guard.
- Matches your glass, gap and door type
Frameless Shower Door Bottom Sweep with Drip Rail, 1/4 in Glass, 1/2 in Wipe, 36 in
- Glass
- 1/4″
- Gap
- 1/8–3/8″
- Length
- 36″
- Material
- Polycarbonate channel, PVC wipe
- Mount
- press-on
- Trim
- Cut to size
Channel is sized to the glass — verify thickness with a caliper. The 1/2 in wipe seals gaps of 1/8 in–3/8 in. Cut with a fine-tooth hacksaw.
- Trimming to length is expected for this seal
Frameless Shower Door Bottom Sweep with Drip Rail, 5/16–3/8 in Glass, 1/2 in Wipe, 36 in
- Glass
- 5/16–3/8″
- Gap
- 1/8–3/8″
- Length
- 36″
- Material
- Polycarbonate channel, PVC wipe
- Mount
- press-on
- Trim
- Cut to size
Dual-size channel seats snug on 5/16 in and neutral on 3/8 in glass. The 1/2 in wipe seals gaps of 1/8 in–3/8 in. Cut with a fine-tooth hacksaw.
⚠ On 5/16 in glass press the channel on dry; lubricant makes dual-size channels creep.
- Trimming to length is expected for this seal
Alternative seal types to consider
Measurement checklist before you order
- Glass thickness at the bare edge — pull back a section of the old seal first (1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″, or 1/2″)
- Bottom gap from glass edge to threshold at the HINGE end, door closed
- Bottom gap at the HANDLE end, door closed — note any difference
- Door width along the bottom edge (for trimming the new seal)
- Where the water actually exits: under the door, off a bottom corner, or down a vertical edge
- Photo of the old seal's cross-section before removing it
Common buying mistakes
- Ordering by the old seal's silhouette instead of measured glass thickness and gap — profiles differ across brands with identical shapes.
- Measuring the gap with the worn sweep still installed; measure bare glass edge to threshold.
- Choosing a wipe height equal to the gap: with zero overlap the fin hovers and never seals.
- Ignoring the score reasons — an 80 with "cut to length" is routine; a 30 with a door-type warning is a coin flip.
Frequently asked questions
How does the compatibility score work?
Your glass thickness and gap are converted to decimal inches and checked against each product's stated min/max ranges, door-type tags, and leak-location tags. 100 = inside all ranges; 80 = fits but needs trimming to length; 60 = your measurement sits within 1/16 inch of a range limit; 30 = a risky combination such as a seal type that rarely fixes the selected leak; 0 = outside a range and hidden from results.
Why are there no prices on the result cards?
Retail prices and stock change hourly, and republishing them goes stale immediately. Cards show the size ranges and specs instead, so you can verify the fit against any retailer's live listing.
Can I link someone to my results?
Yes — results are encoded in the page address, so copying the URL from your browser reproduces the same inputs and matches. Result URLs are deliberately excluded from search engines; the clean finder page is the indexed one.